The wines from Clos du Papillon (so-named for its unique butterfly shape) is one of the great examples of Savennières. It has all the delicious mineral infusion from the volcanic rock in the schist soils that deserves more praise than it gets. As a highly structured Chenin, it can age for decades, and 20 years on this is still a delight that is getting weightier and more elegant. It’s smoky but still full of good citrus fruit, flowers, and flint aromas.