Neta Ensamble (Madrecuixe, Tepextate, Jabalín, Bicuixe, Tobalá) Manuel Aquino García 750ml

NETA Mezcal is all about celebrating the people, traditions, and extraordinary spirits coming out of Miahuatlán, Oaxaca. Located at the southern edge of the Central Valleys, where the foothills of the Sierra Madre del Sur begin, this region has long been recognized for producing some of Mexico's finest mezcales. Since 2012, NETA has worked closely with small family producers and a cooperative of twelve palenqueros, helping bring their remarkable spirits to a wider audience. What makes these mezcales so special is that no two batches are ever quite the same. Recipes and techniques have been passed down through generations, with some producers staying true to their grandfathers' methods while others make subtle adjustments based on their own experience. Everything from the soil and water to wild yeasts and changing environmental conditions plays a role, but ultimately, it's the mezcalero's personal touch that gives each expression its own identity.

This particular expression from maestro mezcalero Ranulfo is a beautiful example of a true ensamble, where different agave varieties are harvested, cooked, fermented, and distilled together from beginning to end. It's a practice that goes back to the earliest traditions of mezcal production, when producers would simply harvest whatever agaves were ripe and work with what nature had provided. Of course, it's easier said than done. Different agaves cook at different rates, making the process particularly challenging, but when everything comes together, the result can be something truly extraordinary. By allowing the different varieties to develop together throughout the entire production, the finished mezcal takes on layers of complexity and depth that are difficult to achieve with a single agave. Ranulfo takes things a step further by using a traditional refrescadera, a hybrid copper pot and stainless steel column still that allows him to reach the desired proof in just one distillation. It's a demanding technique that many producers have moved away from, but one that Ranulfo continues to master.

What really sets this mezcal apart is how much character it delivers without ever feeling heavy or overpowering. It opens with a wonderfully distinctive combination of sea spray and oyster brine, followed by fresh green apple and a subtle touch of sandalwood. On the palate, there's an almost effervescent quality, with a light, fluid texture that keeps the flavors moving and evolving with every sip. It's savory, mineral-driven, refreshing, and remarkably elegant, with the different agaves coming together in a way that feels both complex and beautifully balanced. And considering that Ranulfo produces just one batch a year, with this 2018 release totaling only 800 liters, there's something especially rewarding about experiencing a mezcal made with this level of care and individuality. This is a mezcal worth taking your time with. Not simply because it's rare, but because it offers a genuinely different drinking experience—one that challenges the expectation that great mezcal needs to be big, smoky, or intense. Instead, it delivers remarkable depth through freshness, texture, and finesse. A beautiful reminder that some of the most compelling mezcales are also the most understated.