Mount Etna is a current darling of the Italian wine scene, and I Custodi is among the 21st-century Etna Renaissance producers who are now making wines as compelling as the active volcano’s cooled lava flows. From its beginning in 2007, local owner Mario Paoluzi set the groundwork to make I Custodi an Etna fuoriclasse, as the Italians say, one of the greats.

Here the very special microclimate and fertile volcanic soil provide an ideal setting for vines. The vines suffer from the drought of volcanic soils, but the suffering is a stimulus for the plants: they bear little fruit, but are very rich. Not sweet and concentrated, but always in great balance with just the right acidity. The microclimate is marked by extreme variations; cold temperatures in winter, almost Alpine, but in summer the Sicilian sun brings high temperatures. 

Paoluzi works exclusively with the ancient albarella bush vines, some of which are 150+ years old. He also has key vineyard holdings of 12 hectares on the northern and southeastern slopes, and a cellar that allows for long ferments and extended elevage.The flagship old-vine rosso Aetneus is often released after 4-6 years in bottle; their Etna Bianco Superiore has at least 2 years of bottle age.