While the vast majority of Albariño is made on an industrial scale to knock back easily in its youth, there are a handful of tiny artisanal producers pushing the boundaries of this region and this varietal and crafting some of Spain’s most original, complex and age-worthy white wines. In the top echelon of this pyramid is Bodegas Zarate, one of Rias Baixas’ and Spain’s most exciting and talented winemakers. The Zarate estate has a long history, dating back to 1707. Today, the winery is run by the 7th generation, Eulogio Pomares, who started in 1999.

The Zarate estate encompasses a total of 9.6 Ha of vines, over 12 different parcels. It is located in the Val de Salnés subzone which is prized for its cool climate and close proximity to the sea, which Pomares feels gives the wines a salty character. The soils here are what is called Xabre, or weathered granite, which also helps to accentuate the intense minerality of the wines. The vines are farmed organically with many biodynamic techniques employed as well. Pomares also uses a rotation of cover crops as well as his own remedy of homeopathic “teas” to support the balance and health of the vineyards.

In most years, the estate averages around 4 tons per hectare which of course is far less than the 12 tons/Ha that is permitted in the DO. All the vineyard work, including harvest, is done by hand. In the cellar, he ferments everything with indigenous yeasts, and allows most of the wines to do at least partial malolactic fermentation. He is also judicious with his use of SO2.